Annecy is a joy for food lovers. Between hearty Savoyard mountain cooking, fresh fish straight from the lake, cosy bistros, elegant cafés and some of the prettiest bakeries you will ever see, eating well here is half the pleasure of a visit. These are my genuine favourites, the places I go back to and send my guests to, across every meal of the day, plus a guide to the local dishes worth seeking out.
What to eat: the local specialities
Before the where, a quick word on the what, because Annecy’s food is firmly Alpine and some of it may be new to you.
The great Savoyard classics are all built around cheese and the mountains. Fondue is melted cheese you dip bread into; raclette is cheese melted and scraped over potatoes and charcuterie; and tartiflette, my comfort-food favourite, is a baked dish of potatoes, lardons, onions and melted Reblochon cheese. You will also see diots (local sausages) and wonderful mountain cheeses like Reblochon, Beaufort and Tomme de Savoie.
But Annecy has one speciality that is all its own: fish from the lake. Look out for filets de perche (perch fillets) or féra, usually served simply pan-fried with lemon and butter. Eating lake fish by the water it came from is one of those small, perfect Annecy moments.
For traditional Savoyard food
If you have come to the Alps, you have to try the mountain cooking at least once, especially in the cooler months.
Le Fréti is the institution for this. Warm, traditional and much loved, it is famous for its generous fondues and raclettes. It is exactly the convivial, cheese-laden meal you picture when you think of a Savoyard dinner, perfect after a day by the lake or in the mountains. It is popular, so book ahead in high season.
Bon Pain Bon Vin is a cosy bistro and a real local favourite, where you can enjoy artisan cheeses, charcuterie and a lovely selection of wines in a friendly atmosphere, with a nice little terrace too. Ideal for a relaxed, informal dinner.
For a lively meal in the old town
Chez Monique, on the bustling Place Sainte-Claire, is a must for a relaxed, atmospheric meal. Even when it is busy, and it often is, they always seem to find you a table. Great for pizza, great for people-watching, and a genuine slice of Annecy life.
L’Estaminet is a traditional restaurant where you are guaranteed a delicious meal. In summer they do not take reservations, so ask for a table on the terrace overlooking the water and settle in. It is one of my reliable recommendations for authentic cooking without fuss.
For breakfast, brunch and coffee
Annecy does cafés beautifully. Haven is an elegant, Scandinavian-feeling café tucked under the arches of the old town, my pick for a coffee or a leisurely breakfast before a day of exploring. Slake is the trendier choice, serving high-quality coffee, creative drinks and delicious homemade pastries in a modern setting.
For a lazy weekend brunch, Au Bar Roux d’Heure has cosy, original decor and is a lovely spot to settle in. It is popular at weekends, so expect a short wait, but the service is efficient and it is worth it.
For a sweet treat
You cannot walk through Annecy without being tempted. Boulangerie Les Délices du Lac, with its traditional wooden storefront, is as beautiful as it is delicious, the pastries are little works of art and the staff are lovely. It is one of the most photogenic shopfronts in town, and the quality lives up to the looks.
And on a warm day, ice cream by the water is non-negotiable. Glacier Perrière, Glacier des Alpes and Chez Poustache are all excellent. There is often a queue in summer, but it moves fast and the reward is worth it as you stroll along the canals.
Eat like a local: the market and a lakeside picnic
One of my favourite ways to eat in Annecy costs almost nothing. The old town market (mornings on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays) is full of local cheeses, charcuterie, bread and fruit. Put together a picnic and eat it by the water in the Jardins de l’Europe, with the mountains in front of you. On a fine day, it beats any restaurant terrace.
A local tip
Two things I always tell my guests. First, in summer, book or arrive early for the popular terraces, the best waterside tables go fast. Second, do not spend every meal in the busiest tourist spots, some of the loveliest moments are the simple ones, a bakery pastry by the canal, a picnic on the grass, a scoop of ice cream at sunset.
If you would like to discover the old town while you are at it, my self-guided treasure hunt weaves through exactly these streets, a fun way to work up an appetite between stops.
Where to stay
Staying in the heart of the old town means all of these spots are a short walk from your door, and you can wander home along the canals after dinner. I have an apartment right in the centre, a few minutes from the lake and surrounded by the best of Annecy’s food scene.
Any questions about where to eat in Annecy or planning your trip? Just write to me, I would be glad to help.
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